In Praise of FIG trees - How to grow and Recipies

Growing fig trees can be a rewarding endeavor, especially if you enjoy fresh figs. Here's a guide on how to grow fig trees:

1. Choose the Right Variety:

There are many varieties of fig trees, so choose one that suits your climate and preferences. Common varieties include Brown Turkey, Celeste, and Mission.

Consider factors like local climate, available space, and desired fruit characteristics when selecting a variety.

2. Select a Suitable Location:

Fig trees thrive in warm climates with plenty of sunlight. Choose a location in your yard or garden that receives full sun for at least 6-8 hours a day.

Ensure the soil is well-draining to prevent waterlogging, as fig trees do not tolerate waterlogged conditions.

3. Planting:

Plant fig trees in the spring or fall when the soil is warm and moist.

Dig a hole that is slightly larger than the root ball of the tree.

Place the tree in the hole, ensuring that the soil level around the tree matches the level of the surrounding ground.

Backfill the hole with soil and water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.

4. Watering:

Water newly planted fig trees regularly, keeping the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged.

Once established, fig trees are drought-tolerant but will benefit from occasional deep watering during dry periods, especially in the summer months.

5. Fertilizing:

Fertilize fig trees with a balanced fertilizer in the spring before new growth begins.

Avoid over-fertilizing, as this can lead to excessive vegetative growth at the expense of fruit production.

6. Pruning:

Prune fig trees in late winter or early spring while the tree is still dormant.

Remove any dead, diseased, or damaged branches.

Thin out overcrowded branches to improve air circulation and light penetration within the canopy.

Fig trees can be trained to a single trunk or multiple trunks, depending on your preference.

7. Protection from Cold:

In colder climates, provide winter protection for fig trees to prevent frost damage to the branches.

Mulch around the base of the tree to insulate the roots and protect them from freezing temperatures.

8. Harvesting:

Figs typically ripen in late summer or early fall, depending on the variety.

Harvest ripe figs by gently twisting them from the tree. Ripe figs will be soft to the touch and have a sweet aroma.

Varieties of FIGS are listed at the bottom of this article.

How to make FIG Bars

Ingredients:

For the Fig Filling:

2 cups dried figs, stems removed

1/2 cup water

2 tablespoons honey or maple syrup

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

For the Dough:

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Fig Filling:

Chop the dried figs into small pieces.

In a saucepan, combine the chopped figs, water, honey or maple syrup, lemon juice, and vanilla extract.

Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat, then reduce the heat to low and cook for about 10-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the figs are soft and the mixture thickens.

Remove from heat and allow it to cool.

2. Make the Dough:

Preheat your oven to 350°F (175°C).

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

In a separate large bowl, cream together the softened butter and brown sugar until light and fluffy.

Beat in the egg and vanilla extract until well combined.

Gradually add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients, mixing until a dough forms.

3. Assemble the Bars:

Take about two-thirds of the dough and press it evenly into the bottom of a lightly greased 8x8 inch baking dish, forming the bottom crust layer.

Spread the cooled fig filling evenly over the dough in the baking dish.

Crumble the remaining dough evenly over the fig filling layer, forming the top crust layer.

4. Bake:

Place the baking dish in the preheated oven and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until the top crust is golden brown.

Remove from the oven and let it cool completely before slicing into bars.

5. Serve:

Once cooled, slice the bars into squares or rectangles.

These fig bars can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for a few days, or you can refrigerate them for longer freshness. They make a wonderful snack or dessert!

How to Make FIG Jam

Making fig jam is a delightful way to preserve the sweet flavor of fresh figs. Here's a simple recipe to guide you through the process:

Ingredients:

2 pounds fresh figs, stems removed and chopped

1 1/2 cups granulated sugar

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger (optional)

1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)

Instructions:

1. Prepare the Figs:

Wash the figs thoroughly under running water.

Remove the stems from the figs and chop them into small pieces. You can leave the skin on or peel them, depending on your preference.

2. Cook the Jam:

In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, combine the chopped figs, granulated sugar, lemon juice, and lemon zest. Stir well to combine.

If using, add the ground cinnamon and ground ginger for extra flavor.

Place the pot over medium heat and bring the mixture to a boil, stirring frequently to dissolve the sugar.

Once the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat to low and let it simmer gently. Cook the jam, stirring occasionally, until it thickens to your desired consistency. This usually takes about 45 minutes to 1 hour.

As the jam cooks, use a spoon to skim off any foam that forms on the surface.

Optional: Add vanilla extract for a subtle flavor enhancement. Stir well to incorporate.

3. Test for Doneness:

To check if the jam is ready, place a small amount on a chilled plate and let it cool for a few seconds. Run your finger through the jam – if it wrinkles and holds its shape, it's done. If not, continue cooking and test again after a few minutes.

4. Jar and Store the Jam:

Once the jam reaches the desired consistency, remove the pot from the heat.

Carefully ladle the hot jam into clean, sterilized jars, leaving a small amount of space at the top.

Wipe the jar rims with a clean, damp cloth to remove any drips or spills.

Seal the jars with lids and rings, ensuring they are tightly closed.

Allow the jars to cool to room temperature before storing them in the refrigerator.

The fig jam can be stored in the refrigerator for up to several weeks. If you want to store it for longer, you can process the jars in a water bath canner for long-term shelf stability.

5. Enjoy:

Enjoy your homemade fig jam on toast, biscuits, scones, or as a topping for yogurt or ice cream. It also pairs well with cheese and charcuterie boards.

This recipe yields about 3 to 4 cups of fig jam, depending on the size and ripeness of the figs. Feel free to adjust the sugar and lemon juice to suit your taste preferences.

Varieties of fig trees and when they Produce Fruit

There are numerous varieties of fig trees, each with its own unique characteristics including flavor, size, color, and cold hardiness. Here are some common varieties of fig trees along with their general fruit production times:

Brown Turkey (Celeste):

Fruit Production: Brown Turkey figs typically produce two crops per year. The first crop, called the breba crop, ripens in early summer on last year's growth. The main crop ripens in late summer or early fall on new growth.

Characteristics: Brown Turkey figs have brownish-purple skin and sweet, juicy pink flesh. They are cold-hardy and well-suited for various climates.

Mission (Black Mission):

Fruit Production: Mission figs generally produce one crop per year, ripening in late summer or early fall.

Characteristics: Mission figs have dark purple to black skin and sweet, flavorful pink flesh. They are widely grown in warm climates and are commonly used fresh or dried.

Kadota:

Fruit Production: Kadota figs produce one main crop per year, ripening in mid to late summer.

Characteristics: Kadota figs have greenish-yellow skin and sweet, amber-colored flesh. They are often used for drying and canning but are also delicious eaten fresh.

Celeste:

Fruit Production: Celeste figs typically produce one main crop per year, ripening in mid to late summer.

Characteristics: Celeste figs have light brown to violet skin and sweet, flavorful pink flesh. They are known for their cold hardiness and are suitable for growing in cooler climates.

Chicago Hardy:

Fruit Production: Chicago Hardy figs are unique in that they produce fruit on both last year's growth and new growth, resulting in two crops per year. The first crop ripens in early summer on last year's growth, while the main crop ripens in late summer or early fall on new growth.

Characteristics: Chicago Hardy figs have bronze-colored skin and sweet, reddish-pink flesh. They are exceptionally cold-hardy and can withstand temperatures down to -10°F (-23°C).

Adriatic:

Fruit Production: Adriatic figs typically produce one main crop per year, ripening in late summer or early fall.

Characteristics: Adriatic figs have greenish-yellow skin and sweet, pale pink flesh. They are prized for their rich flavor and are excellent for fresh eating.

These are just a few examples of fig varieties, and there are many more to explore. The specific fruit production times may vary slightly depending on factors such as climate, growing conditions, and individual tree health.

What zone do figs grow in

Fig trees are versatile and can be grown in a wide range of climate zones, depending on the variety and local conditions. However, they generally thrive in USDA hardiness zones 8 through 11. Here's a breakdown:

Zone 8: Fig trees can grow well in zone 8, where winters are relatively mild with occasional frosts. However, some protection may be needed during colder winters, especially for young trees or in colder microclimates within zone 8 regions.

Zone 9: Zone 9 provides ideal conditions for fig trees, with mild winters and long, warm summers. Fig trees typically thrive in this zone and can produce abundant fruit without much winter protection.

Zone 10: Fig trees excel in zone 10, where winters are mild to warm and frost is rare. These conditions allow fig trees to grow vigorously and produce large harvests of fruit.

Zone 11: In zone 11, which includes tropical and subtropical regions, fig trees can grow year-round without interruption. They thrive in the consistently warm temperatures and ample sunlight found in these areas.

While fig trees are best suited to these zones, gardeners in cooler climates (zones 6 and 7) can still successfully grow figs by choosing cold-hardy varieties and providing winter protection such as wrapping the tree in insulation or covering it with blankets during freezing temperatures. Additionally, container-grown fig trees can be moved indoors during the winter in colder climates to protect them from freezing temperatures.

It's important to select fig varieties that are well-suited to your specific climate and growing conditions to ensure success. Additionally, local gardening experts and extension offices can provide valuable advice on growing figs in your area.

Gardening Advice and Best Plants for Beginners

Starting a garden can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience. Here are some tips for beginner gardeners to help you get started:

Start Small:

Begin with a small garden bed or a few containers. This will make it more manageable and less overwhelming as you learn the basics.

Choose the Right Location:

Select a spot with good sunlight, as most plants require at least 6-8 hours of sunlight each day. Ensure that the soil is well-draining and amend it with compost if needed.

Select Easy-to-Grow Plants:

Opt for plants that are known to be beginner-friendly. Examples include tomatoes, basil, mint, zucchini, and marigolds. These plants are generally more forgiving and resilient.

Understand Your Zone:

Know your USDA hardiness zone. This will help you choose plants that are suitable for your specific climate and growing conditions.

Good Soil Preparation:

Invest time in preparing your soil. Add compost to improve fertility and structure. Healthy soil is the foundation for a successful garden.

Watering:

Be consistent with watering, but avoid overwatering. Most plants prefer deep, infrequent watering rather than shallow, frequent watering. Water early in the day to reduce the risk of diseases.

Mulch:

Apply mulch around your plants to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature. Mulching also adds organic matter to the soil as it breaks down.

Learn About Pests and Diseases:

Keep an eye out for common pests and diseases in your area. Early detection and intervention can prevent major issues. Consider using natural or organic pest control methods when possible.

Gardening Tools:

Invest in basic gardening tools such as a hand trowel, pruners, a watering can, and gloves. As you gain more experience, you can add more specialized tools to your collection.

Educate Yourself:

Take advantage of gardening resources, books, online forums, and local gardening clubs. Learn about the specific needs of the plants you are growing and be open to experimenting.

Be Patient:

Gardening is a process that takes time. Don't be discouraged by initial challenges or setbacks. Learn from your experiences and celebrate small successes.

Enjoy the Process:

Gardening is not just about the end result; it's also about the joy of nurturing plants and being in nature. Take the time to enjoy your garden and the sense of accomplishment it brings. Remember that every gardener faces challenges, and it's all part of the learning experience.

Easiest Vegetables to grow in a container

Growing vegetables in containers is a great option for those with limited space or poor soil. Here are some of the easiest vegetables to grow:

Tomatoes:

Compact varieties of tomatoes, such as cherry or patio tomatoes, do well in containers. Use a large container with good support for the plants.

Lettuce:

Lettuce is a quick-growing and shallow-rooted vegetable that thrives in containers. You can grow various types of lettuce for a continuous harvest.

Radishes:

Radishes have a short growing season and can be grown in small containers. They are perfect for beginners and add a peppery flavor to salads.

Herbs:

Herbs like basil, mint, parsley, and chives do exceptionally well in containers. They are versatile and can be grown on a sunny windowsill or balcony.

Peppers:

Compact pepper varieties, such as bell peppers or mini sweet peppers, can be successfully grown in containers. Provide support as the plants grow.

Spinach:

Spinach is a cool-season crop that grows well in containers. It's rich in nutrients and can be grown in a variety of container sizes.

Cucumbers:

Dwarf or bush cucumber varieties are suitable for containers. Provide a trellis or support for the vines to climb.

Green Onions (Scallions):

Green onions have shallow roots and can be grown in small containers. You can regrow them from kitchen scraps.

Carrots:

Choose smaller carrot varieties for container gardening. Use a deep container to accommodate the root length.

Kale:

Kale is a hardy leafy green that can be grown in containers. It's rich in nutrients and can tolerate cooler temperatures.

Bush Beans:

Compact bush bean varieties are well-suited for container gardening. They produce a good harvest and don't require extensive staking.

Strawberries:

Strawberry plants can be grown in hanging baskets or containers. They are relatively low-maintenance and produce sweet berries.

When growing vegetables in containers, ensure that your containers have good drainage, use high-quality potting mix, and provide the appropriate sunlight and water requirements for each plant. Regular monitoring of moisture levels and occasional fertilization will also contribute to successful container gardening.

Easiest vegetables to grow in your existing landscape

If you're looking to incorporate vegetables into your existing landscape, it's a good idea to choose plants that are relatively low-maintenance and adaptable to different growing conditions. Here are some of the easiest vegetables to grow in your garden:

Lettuce:

Lettuce is a cool-season crop that grows well in a variety of conditions. You can plant it in between other plants or in areas with partial shade.

Radishes:

Radishes are quick-growing and can be planted in small spaces. They are suitable for intercropping and can be grown alongside other vegetables.

Tomatoes:

Tomatoes are versatile and can be grown in various garden settings. Choose determinate varieties for compact growth or use cages or stakes for support.

Herbs:

Herbs like basil, oregano, thyme, and rosemary are not only flavorful but also easy to grow. They can be planted in small pockets within your garden.

Green Beans:

Bush varieties of green beans are easy to grow and can be planted in rows or as border plants. They don't require elaborate support structures.

Zucchini:

Zucchini plants are productive and can be grown in sunny spots. They have large leaves that can also provide some ground cover.

Bell Peppers:

Bell peppers are relatively low-maintenance and can be grown in garden beds or containers. They appreciate well-drained soil and full sunlight.

Cucumbers:

Compact cucumber varieties are suitable for smaller garden spaces. Providing a trellis or vertical support helps save space.

Carrots:

Carrots can be grown in loose soil, making them suitable for garden beds. Choose shorter varieties if you have rocky or heavy soil.

Spinach:

Spinach is a cool-season crop that can be grown in the shade of taller plants. It's a great addition to mixed garden beds.

Kale:

Kale is a hardy leafy green that can tolerate different soil conditions. It can be planted alongside other vegetables or in its own dedicated space.

Cherry Tomatoes:

Cherry tomatoes are especially easy to grow and can be integrated into flower beds or along the edges of your garden.

Remember to consider the sunlight, soil quality, and water requirements of each vegetable when planning your garden. Also, rotating crops and practicing companion planting can help improve overall garden health and productivity.

Easiest fruit trees to grow

Growing fruit trees can be a rewarding experience, and some fruit trees are known for being relatively easy to cultivate. Here are some of the easiest fruit trees for beginners:

Apple Trees:

Dwarf or semi-dwarf apple trees are ideal for smaller spaces and are relatively easy to care for. They do well in a variety of climates and soil types.

Pear Trees:

Like apple trees, pear trees are generally hardy and easy to grow. Dwarf varieties are suitable for smaller yards or even large containers.

Cherry Trees:

Sour cherry trees, such as Montmorency, are easier to grow than sweet cherry varieties. They are adaptable to different soil types.

Peach Trees:

Dwarf or semi-dwarf peach trees are easier to manage and harvest. Peaches prefer well-draining soil and a sunny location.

Plum Trees:

European plum varieties, like Stanley or Santa Rosa, are often easier to grow than Japanese plums. They are relatively low-maintenance.

Fig Trees:

Fig trees are hardy and drought-tolerant once established. They are suitable for warmer climates and can be grown in containers in colder regions.

Citrus Trees:

Dwarf citrus trees, such as Meyer lemon or Calamondin orange, are well-suited for containers or small gardens. They thrive in sunny locations.

Apricot Trees:

Apricots are hardy fruit trees that adapt to a variety of soils. Choose self-pollinating varieties for better fruit production.

Persimmon Trees:

American persimmons, in particular, are hardy and easy to grow. They are adaptable to different soil types and produce sweet, flavorful fruit.

Nectarine Trees:

Nectarines are similar to peaches but have a smoother skin. Dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties are easier to manage.

Mulberry Trees:

Mulberry trees are tough and can thrive in different soil conditions. They are relatively low-maintenance and produce sweet berries.

Olive Trees:

Olive trees are drought-tolerant and suitable for warm, sunny climates. They are also well-suited for container gardening.

When planting fruit trees, consider the specific needs of each type, such as sunlight requirements, soil preferences, and climate suitability for your region. Proper spacing, pruning, and pest control practices will contribute to the health and productivity of your fruit trees. Additionally, choosing disease-resistant varieties can make maintenance easier for beginners.

Best Variety of Table Grape that doesn't require pruning

Grapes are easy and will grow on any sunny fence requiring little work.   While all grapevines benefit from some level of pruning to maintain health and productivity, there are grape varieties that are considered less demanding in terms of pruning compared to others.  These varieties will benefit from occasional maintenance to remove dead or diseased wood, improve airflow, and shape or train the vines. 

Muscat:

Muscat grapes, known for their aromatic and sweet flavor, are relatively less demanding in terms of pruning. They tend to have a more open growth habit.

Reliance:

Reliance is a red seedless grape variety that is known for its disease resistance and less vigorous growth. It can be a good option for those looking for a grapevine with minimal pruning needs.

Himrod:

Himrod is a white seedless grape variety with a reputation for being easy to grow. It has a compact growth habit and can be less demanding in terms of pruning compared to some other grape varieties.

Canadice:

Canadice is a red seedless grape that is relatively easy to manage. It's a cold-hardy variety and can be suitable for regions with cooler climates.

Thompson Seedless:

Thompson Seedless, also known as Sultana, is a popular green seedless grape variety. While it benefits from some pruning, it tends to be less vigorous compared to some other grape varieties.

Interlaken:

Interlaken is an early ripening white seedless grape. It's known for its smaller size, making it suitable for smaller spaces, and it may require less pruning compared to larger grape varieties.

Concord Seedless:

Concord Seedless is a variant of the classic Concord grape. While regular pruning is still beneficial, this variety may require less aggressive pruning compared to its seeded counterpart.

How to Make a Flowering Meadow that is not Poisonous to Horses or Grazers

 

When planting flowers and flowering shrubs in a horse meadow or along fences, it's essential to choose plants that are non-toxic to horses. Here are some examples of horse-safe options that also provide a wonderful show of blooms.   If you use heirloom varieties, most will reseed over the years.

Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale): Dandelion is commonly found in meadows and is generally considered safe for horses. It is also one of the few nitogen fixers that is safe for horses so load up.

Lavender (Lavandula spp.): Lavender is a fragrant and visually appealing herb that is generally safe for horses.

Rose (Rosa spp.): Roses are often safe for horses, but be cautious of thorns. Thornless varieties or those with fewer thorns are preferable.

Sunflower (Helianthus annuus): Sunflowers are non-toxic to horses and can add a bright and cheerful touch.

Marigold (Tagetes spp.): Marigolds are generally safe for horses and can add vibrant colors.

Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla): Chamomile is a safe herb that can be planted, and its flowers have a pleasant fragrance.

Calendula (Calendula officinalis): Also known as pot marigold, calendula is usually safe for horses.

Daisy (Bellis perennis): Daisies are generally non-toxic and can provide a natural, wildflower look.

Bee Balm (Monarda spp.): Bee Balm is horse-safe and attracts pollinators.

Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.): Hibiscus flowers are generally considered safe for horses.

Phlox (Phlox spp.): Phlox can add a burst of color and is usually safe for horses.

Violas (Viola spp.) and pansies (Viola × wittrockiana) are generally considered to be non-toxic to horses. These plants are often used in gardens and are not typically associated with causing harm to horses when consumed in small amounts.

California poppies (Eschscholzia californica) are generally considered non-toxic to horses.

Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) and daisies (Asteraceae family, including various species like Bellis perennis or Leucanthemum vulgare) are generally considered non-toxic to horses. However, it's important to note that while these flowers are not typically harmful, individual sensitivities can vary among animals, and there may be specific varieties or conditions that could pose a risk.

Flowering shrubs and trees for borders and fences

Crape Myrtle (Lagerstroemia spp.) is generally not considered highly toxic to horses. Lilac Trees and Red bud bushes flower in spring and are not toxic. Rosemary is evergreen bush and is not toxic. Hibiscus comes in shrub varieties as do roses. We mix Bee balm and sunflowers in the fence lines and border plantings because they are tall and reseed.

Our Fav in pasture tree? A gum Tree. They grow very tall, provide a lot of shade and are safe. Evergreens are fine too on the edges of pastures.

Remember to avoid planting toxic plants such as oleander, foxglove, yew, and other plants that can be harmful to horses. Always double-check with a local horticulturist or extension service to ensure that the specific varieties you choose are safe for horses in your region. Additionally, consider the specific conditions of your meadow, such as soil type and sunlight, to choose plants that will thrive in the environment.

Eat the Seasons: What is Available each month at your Farmers Market

 It's important to note that the availability of vegetables can vary based on factors such as location and climate within the United States. The following list provides a general idea of when certain vegetables are typically in season, but specific timing may vary by region.

January:

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrots

Kale

Spinach

Winter squash

February:

Beets

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Carrots

Cauliflower

Kale

Winter squash

March:

Asparagus

Broccoli

Carrots

Lettuce

Peas

Spinach

April:

Artichokes

Asparagus

Broccoli

Carrots

Peas

Radishes

Spinach

May:

Artichokes

Asparagus

Broccoli

Carrots

Peas

Radishes

Spinach

Strawberries

June:

Beets

Broccoli

Carrots

Cucumbers

Lettuce

Peas

Strawberries

Summer squash

July:

Beets

Bell peppers

Corn

Cucumbers

Eggplant

Tomatoes

Zucchini

August:

Bell peppers

Corn

Cucumbers

Eggplant

Green beans

Tomatoes

Zucchini

September:

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Carrots

Cauliflower

Eggplant

Grapes

Tomatoes

Winter squash

October:

Broccoli

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrots

Cauliflower

Pumpkins

Sweet potatoes

Winter squash

November:

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrots

Cauliflower

Cranberries

Potatoes

Winter squash

December:

Brussels sprouts

Cabbage

Carrots

Kale

Potatoes

Winter squash

Keep in mind that this list provides a general overview, and actual availability may vary depending on local climate conditions and specific growing practices in different regions of the United States. For the most accurate information, it's recommended to check with local farmers' markets or agricultural extension offices.

The Easiest Vegetables to grow on a City Terrace in pots and the Actual Financial Advantage

Growing vegetables on a city terrace in pots can be a rewarding and relatively simple way to enjoy fresh produce. Here are some vegetables that are generally easy to grow in containers:

Tomatoes: Compact or bush varieties work well in pots. Choose determinate varieties for a more controlled growth.

Herbs: Basil, mint, parsley, chives, and oregano are excellent choices. They don't require much space and can thrive in small containers.

Lettuce and Salad Greens: Loose-leaf lettuce, spinach, and arugula are quick-growing and can be harvested multiple times.

Radishes: Radishes have a short growing season and can be grown in shallow containers. They are quick to mature and add a crisp texture to salads.

Bell Peppers: Compact varieties of bell peppers are well-suited for container gardening. They require a sunny spot and well-draining soil.

Cucumbers: Choose compact or bush cucumber varieties, and provide them with a trellis for support. Regular watering is essential for cucumber plants.

Green Onions: These are low-maintenance and can be grown in small pots. They regrow quickly after harvesting.

Cherry Tomatoes: Smaller tomato varieties, especially cherry tomatoes, are well-suited for containers. They produce abundant fruit and can be grown in hanging baskets.

Carrots: Choose shorter carrot varieties, and use deep containers to accommodate their root growth. Ensure the soil is loose and well-draining.

Kale: Kale is a hardy leafy green that can be grown in pots. It's resistant to pests and cold temperatures.

Strawberries and small fruit trees like lemons are space savers and can often share the same pot.  Both will overwinter in a sunny window inside.

When growing vegetables in containers, consider the following tips:

Container Size: Use containers that are large enough to accommodate the mature size of the plant. Ensure they have drainage holes to prevent waterlogging.   If plants are climbers be sure there is a trellis or deck railing they can use.   Plant towers are fantastic for deck gardens and there are brands that self water saving time.

Quality Soil: Use a high-quality potting mix with added organic matter for better water retention and nutrient availability.

Sunlight: Most vegetables require at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Ensure your terrace receives adequate sunlight.

Watering: Container plants may require more frequent watering, especially during hot weather. Check the moisture level regularly and water when the top inch of soil feels dry.

Fertilizing: Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer to provide essential nutrients to your container plants.

Before starting, check the specific requirements of each vegetable and adjust your terrace gardening plan accordingly.

What is the return on investment per plant type 

Determining the return on investment (ROI) for growing vegetables on a city terrace in pots depends on various factors such as the cost of seeds or seedlings, soil, containers, water, fertilizer, and the market value of the harvested produce. Additionally, personal preferences, local market conditions, and the level of care given to the plants can influence the results.

Here's a general perspective on the potential ROI for some common container-grown vegetables:

Herbs (e.g., basil, mint, parsley): Herbs are often relatively inexpensive to start from seeds or small seedlings. Since they're used in smaller quantities, the cost per serving is low, making herbs a cost-effective choice.

Tomatoes: While tomato plants may require larger containers and more care, they can yield a substantial amount of fruit. The ROI depends on factors such as the cost of the tomato variety, container size, and local market prices for tomatoes.  A typical Plant Start may cost 3-5 dollars and a plant will yield 5-10 pounds of tomatoes worth several dollars per pound. 

Lettuce and Salad Greens: These crops are quick to grow, and if harvested continuously, they can provide a steady supply. However, they might not yield as much monetary value compared to some other vegetables.   These produce all season and are often cheaper and easier than buying bagged salad at 5.00 a tub.

Bell Peppers and Cucumbers: Both peppers and cucumbers starts run 3-5 a plant but they typically produce a good yield per plant. The ROI depends on local market prices and the quantity produced.  A typical plant will produce 5-10 peppers or cucumbers per plant (value of 2 each) and generally produce all season.

Root Vegetables (e.g., carrots, radishes): The ROI for root vegetables can be influenced by the cost of seeds, container size, and local market prices. Root vegetables often have a lower market value per pound compared to some other vegetables.  These are cheap to grow and easy.  And cheap to buy at the store so a toss up?   But, growing potatoes in a bucket is very rewarding... lots of potatoes for no work.

Cherry Tomatoes and Small Fruiting Plants: Compact varieties of tomatoes or small fruiting plants like lemon trees can yield a good number of fruits in a relatively small space, making them potentially very cost-effective.

It's important to note that the primary benefit of growing vegetables at home often goes beyond financial considerations. Factors such as the joy of gardening, access to fresh and organic produce, and the environmental impact of reducing transportation and packaging contribute to the overall value.

To estimate your potential ROI, consider researching local market prices for the vegetables you plan to grow, tracking your expenses, and keeping a record of your harvest. Keep in mind that the non-monetary benefits of home gardening can outweigh the financial aspects for many people.

How do you Grow Raspberries, Propagate them... and Three Great Recipes

 

Raspberries do well in a raised bed with a trellis

Growing raspberries can be a rewarding experience, and they are relatively easy to cultivate. Here's a general guide on how to grow raspberries:

1. Choose the Right Variety:

There are two main types of raspberries: summer-bearing and fall-bearing and there is a full list of varieties and zones at the bottom of this article. Summer-bearing varieties produce fruit in early to mid-summer, while fall-bearing varieties produce fruit in late summer or fall. Choose the type that suits your preferences and zone.

2. Select a Suitable Site:

Raspberries prefer well-drained soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH. Choose a location with full sun exposure for at least 6-8 hours per day.

3. Planting:

Plant raspberry bushes in the early spring or fall, when the soil is workable.

Space plants about 2-3 feet apart in rows, and leave 6-8 feet between rows.

Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots without bending or crowding. Plant the raspberry bush at the same depth it was growing in the container.

4. Soil Preparation:

Work organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, into the soil before planting.

Mulch around the plants to help retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate soil temperature.

5. Watering:

Raspberries need consistent moisture, especially during the growing season and fruit production.

Water deeply and regularly, aiming for about 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week.

6. Fertilizing:

Fertilize in the spring with a balanced fertilizer or a fertilizer specifically formulated for berries. Follow the package instructions for application rates.

7. Pruning:

Pruning is essential for raspberries to maintain plant health and increase fruit production.

Summer-bearing raspberries are typically pruned after harvest, while fall-bearing raspberries are often cut back in the early spring.

Remove dead or diseased canes and thin out crowded growth.

8. Trellising:

Many raspberry varieties benefit from some form of support or trellising to keep the canes upright and make harvesting easier.

9. Pest and Disease Management:

Keep an eye out for pests like aphids, spider mites, and Japanese beetles. Use natural or chemical controls as needed.

Common diseases include raspberry cane blight and gray mold. Remove and destroy infected canes promptly.

10. Harvesting:

Harvest raspberries when they are fully colored and easily pull away from the plant.

Pick berries regularly to encourage continuous fruit production.

By following these general guidelines, you can enjoy a bountiful raspberry harvest. Keep in mind that specific care may vary depending on your local climate and the raspberry variety you choose to grow.

Favorite recipes you can make with Raspberries

 Raspberry Smoothie:

Ingredients:

1 cup fresh or frozen raspberries

1 ripe banana

1/2 cup plain Greek yogurt

1/2 cup almond milk (or any milk of your choice)

1 tablespoon honey or maple syrup (optional)

Ice cubes (optional)

Instructions:

Place raspberries, banana, Greek yogurt, and almond milk in a blender.

Add honey or maple syrup if you prefer a sweeter smoothie.

Blend until smooth and creamy.

If desired, add ice cubes and blend again until well combined.

Pour into glasses and enjoy your refreshing raspberry smoothie!

Raspberry Salad with Feta and Walnuts:

Ingredients:

4 cups mixed salad greens (e.g., spinach, arugula, or mixed baby greens)

1 cup fresh raspberries

1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese

1/4 cup chopped walnuts, toasted

Balsamic vinaigrette dressing

Instructions:

In a large bowl, combine the mixed salad greens.

Add fresh raspberries, crumbled feta cheese, and toasted walnuts.

Drizzle with balsamic vinaigrette dressing and toss gently to combine.

Serve immediately as a refreshing and flavorful salad.

Raspberry Lemon Bars:

Ingredients:

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

1/4 cup powdered sugar

2 large eggs

1 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

Zest of one lemon

1 cup fresh raspberries

Powdered sugar for dusting

Instructions:

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Grease a 9x9-inch baking pan.

In a bowl, combine 1 cup flour, softened butter, and 1/4 cup powdered sugar. Press into the prepared pan to form the crust.

Bake the crust for 15-20 minutes or until lightly golden.

In another bowl, whisk together eggs, granulated sugar, 2 tablespoons flour, baking powder, salt, lemon juice, and lemon zest.

Gently fold in fresh raspberries.

Pour the raspberry mixture over the baked crust and return to the oven for an additional 25-30 minutes or until the center is set.

Allow to cool completely, then refrigerate before cutting into bars.

Dust with powdered sugar before serving.

Enjoy these raspberry recipes!

 

How do you propagate Raspberries

Raspberries can be propagated through various methods, including division, suckers, and tip layering. Here's a brief overview of each method:

Suckers (Root Division):

Raspberries naturally send up shoots from their roots, known as suckers. This is one of the simplest ways to propagate them.

In the late winter or early spring, dig up the raspberry plant and locate the suckers.

Use a sharp, clean knife to cut away the suckers from the parent plant, ensuring that each sucker has some roots attached.

Plant the separated suckers in a new location, ensuring proper spacing.

Tip Layering:

This method involves bending a healthy, flexible cane to the ground and burying the tip to encourage root development.

Choose a healthy and disease-free cane in late spring or early summer.

Dig a shallow trench next to the raspberry plant and bury the tip of the cane, leaving the top part exposed.

Water the area well, and roots should develop at the buried tip.

Once roots are established, usually in the fall or the following spring, cut the new plant from the parent plant and transplant  it.

Cuttings:

Softwood or hardwood cuttings can be taken from existing raspberry canes for propagation.

Softwood cuttings are taken in early summer from the current season's growth, while hardwood cuttings are taken in late fall or winter from mature canes.

Cut a 6-8 inch (15-20 cm) section of the cane, making the cut just below a node.

Remove any leaves from the lower part of the cutting.

Dip the cut end in rooting hormone (optional) and plant it in a pot or directly in the ground.

Water well and keep the cutting in a shaded area until roots develop.

Division:

If you have an established raspberry plant, you can divide it to create new plants.

Dig up the entire plant, ensuring you get as much of the root system as possible.

Use a clean, sharp tool to divide the plant into sections, each with its own set of roots and canes.

Replant the divided sections in the desired location, and water them well.

Container Propagation:

Raspberries can also be propagated in containers.

Fill a container with well-draining soil.

Take a cutting or use a sucker, and plant it in the container.

Water regularly, and once roots are established, transplant the raspberry plant to its final location.

Regardless of the propagation method you choose, it's essential to provide the new plants with proper care, including watering, fertilizing, and protection from pests and diseases. Not all methods may be suitable for all raspberry varieties, so it's a good idea to research the specific requirements of the raspberries you are propagating.

Varieties and zones

There are numerous raspberry varieties available, each with its own unique characteristics, flavor profiles, and growing requirements. The fruiting time and hardiness zone can vary depending on the specific variety. Here are a few popular raspberry varieties along with information about their fruiting time and hardiness zones:

Heritage (Rubus idaeus 'Heritage'):

Fruiting Time: Late summer to fall (everbearing)

Hardiness Zone: 4-8

Autumn Bliss (Rubus idaeus 'Autumn Bliss'):

Fruiting Time: Late summer to fall (everbearing)

Hardiness Zone: 4-8

Caroline (Rubus idaeus 'Caroline'):

Fruiting Time: Late summer to fall (everbearing)

Hardiness Zone: 4-8

Tulameen (Rubus idaeus 'Tulameen'):

Fruiting Time: Summer (June to July)

Hardiness Zone: 4-9

Meeker (Rubus idaeus 'Meeker'):

Fruiting Time: Summer (July)

Hardiness Zone: 4-8

Anne Yellow Raspberry (Rubus idaeus 'Anne'):

Fruiting Time: Summer (July)

Hardiness Zone: 4-8

Joan J Thornless Raspberry (Rubus idaeus 'Joan J'):

Fruiting Time: Summer (July)

Hardiness Zone: 4-8

Fall Gold (Rubus idaeus 'Fall Gold'):

Fruiting Time: Late summer to fall (everbearing)

Hardiness Zone: 4-8

Nova Red Raspberry (Rubus idaeus 'Nova'):

Fruiting Time: Summer (July)

Hardiness Zone: 3-8

Malling Jewel (Rubus idaeus 'Malling Jewel'):

Fruiting Time: Summer (July)

Hardiness Zone: 4-8

It's important to note that hardiness zones can vary, and it's essential to choose raspberry varieties that are well-suited to your specific climate. Additionally, everbearing raspberries typically produce fruit in two crops—once in early summer and again in the fall—while summer-bearing raspberries generally produce fruit in a single summer crop. When selecting raspberry varieties, consider factors such as taste preferences, disease resistance, and local climate conditions. Always check with local nurseries or extension services for recommendations tailored to your specific region.

Here are 10 Vegetables to Grow in your Winter Garden

Winter gardens provide abundance and greens right through the snow.  Get yours started in early-mid sept for an abundant harvest.   Don't forget that many of these plants will do well along a south sunny wall in your yard with just a bit of protection.   

Kale: Kale is a cold-hardy leafy green that thrives in cooler temperatures. It's packed with nutrients and can be harvested throughout the winter.

Spinach: Spinach is another leafy green that can withstand cold weather. It's rich in vitamins and minerals and can be used in salads, soups, and various dishes.

Carrots: Carrots are a versatile root vegetable that can be grown in winter. They prefer cooler temperatures and can be left in the ground until needed.

Brussels Sprouts: Brussels sprouts are a cool-season crop that actually benefits from a touch of frost. They develop a sweeter flavor after being exposed to colder temperatures.

Broccoli: Broccoli is a hardy vegetable that can thrive in winter. It's packed with nutrients and can be harvested even when the weather is chilly.

Cabbage: Cabbage is a cold-tolerant vegetable that can be grown in winter. It's a versatile ingredient in various dishes, from coleslaw to soups and stews.

Cauliflower: Like broccoli, cauliflower is a cool-season crop that can withstand winter conditions. It's a nutritious addition to your winter garden.

Winter Squash: Varieties like acorn squash and butternut squash can be grown in the fall and harvested through the winter months. They store well and provide a hearty addition to meals.

Garlic: Garlic is typically planted in the fall and overwinters in the ground. It's ready for harvest in late spring or early summer, providing you with fresh garlic bulbs.

Onions: Similar to garlic, onions are typically planted in the fall and grow throughout the winter. They're a staple ingredient in many dishes and can be harvested in the spring.

Remember to consider your specific climate and local conditions when planning your winter garden. Some varieties may perform better in certain regions, so it's always a good idea to consult with local gardening resources or nurseries for the best recommendations.

Super Creative Backyard Garden with DIY ideas

 

Repurposing old night stands and drawers into 
planters is easy and cute

Creating a backyard garden with DIY ideas is a fantastic way to personalize your outdoor space while expressing your creativity. Here are some DIY ideas to get you started:

Vertical Gardens: Utilize vertical space by creating a vertical garden. You can repurpose old wooden pallets, shoe organizers, or even hang small pots on a trellis. This is ideal for small spaces and adds a unique visual element.

Container Gardening: Reuse old containers like buckets, cans, or broken pots as planters. Paint them in vibrant colors or use decoupage to add artistic designs.

Old paint cans, feed buckets or watering
cans can be painted 

Upcycled Planters: Transform old furniture, like an unused dresser, into a planter by removing the drawers and adding potting soil. Each drawer can house different plants.

Herb Spiral: Build a herb spiral using stones or bricks. This design allows you to grow various herbs with different moisture requirements in one compact area.

Recycled Bottle Edging: Cut plastic bottles in half and bury them along garden beds to create edging. This keeps the lawn from encroaching and provides an interesting border.

DIY Trellis: Construct a trellis using bamboo, wooden poles, or copper pipes to support climbing plants like cucumbers, beans, or ivy.

Fairy Garden: Create a whimsical fairy garden by arranging small plants, miniature furniture, and decorative elements like tiny fairy houses or fairy figurines.

Rainwater Harvesting: Set up a rainwater harvesting system using barrels or large containers to collect rainwater for watering your garden. This promotes sustainability and reduces water waste.

Stepping Stones: Make your garden pathways more appealing with DIY stepping stones. Use concrete or resin molds and personalize them with handprints, mosaic designs, or colorful stones.

Use old furniture to support one wall
of a greenhouse.  Old windows for a roof

Repurposed Garden Decor: Transform old household items like teapots, teacups, or wine bottles into decorative garden features. For example, use teapots as quirky planters or turn wine bottles into bird feeders.

Garden Markers: Create unique garden markers using painted rocks, wine corks, or wooden spoons. Label each plant with these DIY markers.

DIY Birdhouses: Build birdhouses using scrap wood or repurpose old ones. Hang them around the garden to attract birds and add a touch of nature.

Solar-Powered Lights: Make your evenings magical with solar-powered garden lights. You can craft mason jar lanterns or repurpose old lamps into solar lights.

Compost Bin: Build a compost bin using pallets or create a compost pit. This will help you recycle kitchen scraps and garden waste into nutrient-rich compost.

Living Fence: Grow a living fence using tall, fast-growing plants like bamboo or sunflowers. It provides privacy and adds a natural touch to your garden.

Remember to tailor your DIY projects to suit your space, style, and gardening needs. Engaging in DIY projects can be both rewarding and fun, so let your creativity flourish as you create your backyard oasis.

How to Plant a Garden in Cardboard Boxes

Choose a box depth that matches your 
veggie need .

Planting a garden in cardboard boxes is an innovative and eco-friendly way to grow plants, especially if you have limited space or poor soil conditions. Here's a step-by-step guide on how to plant a garden in cardboard boxes:   At the end of the season?   Just cut the boxes open and let old boxes and soil decompose over the winter.

Select the cardboard boxes: Choose sturdy cardboard boxes of an appropriate size for the plants you want to grow. Ensure the boxes are clean and free from any chemicals or contaminants.

Prepare the boxes: Remove any tape or stickers from the boxes and cut off the top flaps. If the boxes don't have drainage holes, use a sharp knife or scissors to create several holes in the bottom to allow for proper drainage.

Do not place a waterproof liner in the boxes.   Instead use double boxes to assure you will have support for the whole growing season

Fill the boxes with soil: Fill the boxes with a good-quality potting mix or a combination of compost, peat moss, and vermiculite. Ensure the soil is loose, well-draining, and nutrient-rich.

Plant your garden: Determine the types of plants suitable for your cardboard box garden. Consider the amount of sunlight your garden receives and the space requirements of the plants. Choose vegetables, herbs, flowers, or even small shrubs that can thrive in containers. Follow the planting instructions for each plant, making sure to space them appropriately in the boxes.

Water the plants: After planting, water the garden thoroughly, ensuring the soil is evenly moist. Be mindful not to overwater, as cardboard can become saturated and weaken. Monitor the moisture levels regularly and water as needed.

Maintain the garden: Proper garden maintenance is crucial for healthy plant growth. Regularly check the moisture levels in the soil and water accordingly. Keep an eye out for pests or diseases and take appropriate measures to control them. Apply organic fertilizers as needed to provide essential nutrients to the plants.

Monitor cardboard decomposition: Over time, the cardboard will naturally break down. Monitor the condition of the boxes and replace them if they start deteriorating or becoming unstable. You can also consider adding a layer of mulch on top of the soil to slow down the decomposition process.

Use door hinges attached to the inside 
corners of boards the following year and
rake dirt in.  Pins can be pulled 
for easy removal and bed creation

Pro Tip:  The following season we rake up the used dirt that has been under a tarp for a few months and shovel it into low 2X4 or 2X6 beds we secure with door hinge pins on the inside... Works great and easy to remove and move around.  

Use cardboard to suppress weeds on paths in gardens

Gather cardboard: Collect cardboard boxes or sheets from various sources. Make sure the cardboard is free from any plastic coatings, tapes, or glossy finishes. Corrugated cardboard works best for this purpose.

Prepare the path: Clear the path of any existing weeds, rocks, or debris. Level the surface and make sure it's clean and ready for the cardboard.

Cut the cardboard: Measure the dimensions of the path and cut the cardboard into strips or pieces that fit the width of the path. It's best to overlap the edges of the cardboard pieces slightly to prevent weed growth.

Wet the cardboard: Before laying the cardboard, dampen it with water. This step helps to weigh it down and keep it in place during installation.

Lay the cardboard: Place the cardboard pieces directly onto the path, ensuring they cover the entire surface. Overlap the edges of the cardboard to minimize weed penetration. Press down the cardboard firmly to ensure good contact with the soil.

Add a protective layer: To enhance the longevity and effectiveness of the cardboard, add a layer of organic mulch on top. Materials such as wood chips, straw, leaves, or grass clippings work well for this purpose. Apply a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch evenly over the cardboard, extending beyond the edges to help anchor it in place.

Maintain the weed barrier: Periodically check the path for any signs of weed growth. If weeds manage to penetrate the cardboard and mulch layer, manually remove them to prevent them from establishing. Over time, the cardboard will break down, and you may need to add additional layers or replenish the mulch to maintain the weed-suppressing effect.

By using cardboard as a weed barrier on garden paths, you can minimize weed growth, reduce the need for chemical weed control, and recycle a readily available material. It's an excellent eco-friendly solution for maintaining clean and weed-free pathways in your garden.    End of season... just till the whole thing in or cover with a tarp to let it decompose.